Thursday, April 28, 2011

Ranges we call the Flinders

Sorry for the late post we have been extremely busy usually ending in long working nights and late dinners. Haven’t had the time to just sit down and take a breather.
The story goes something like this...

Dave and I were lucky enough to get a few days off work for the Easter holiday weekend as the station had their seasonal gathering of family and friends. We decided to head directly east of our location to the Flinders and Gammon Ranges but there was one problem; there is a massive salt Lake named Torrens directly in our path. So instead of it taking 150km as the crow flies it took us around 450km down south to Port Augusta then North East from there. Unfortunately, it was the LONG way around. We needed to stock up anyway which was an experience in itself. For example: Dave was filling up fuel when beside us rocked up a brown, very dirty, sedan of some sort with some locals and three kids. The kids were climbing everywhere around the car, screaming and carrying on, when one of the mothers yelled at the top of lungs “SIT DOWN YOU F#%KING C*%T S!!!” It then proceeded with another mother coming back yelling something similar then quickly praising them with chocolates. Hmmm, didn’t really understand that moment, probably slightly scared as well.

We knew this period would be busy so heading off early Wednesday morning gave us a head start into the national park. The sites within the NP are very well maintained with clean toilets, great camp fire pits (plentiful wood), and large individual sites. The area around us was absolutely spectacular with views of both ranges and gorges not far from us. The highlight was the ability to drive through Brachina Gorge having 70m sheer cliff faces on both sides, the sight of 100 year old gums lying flat on the ground from the pure force of rain water, and the great 4WD tracks through them. The photo can describe better than I can.



Friday came and so did the holiday makers, so we headed further north to the Gammon Ranges to escape the mad rush. We based camp at Arkaroola Village which is pretty much a reception building which has all the facilities like accommodation, bar, fuel, general info centre etc. The caravan park was basic which meant I literally had to take a back pack with my shower gear up to the toilets. Along the dry creek bed then up heartbreak hill just to have a shower, it was compensated by the breathtaking views thankfully. We also noticed how vague their driving signs were; something stated as 2WD was instantly recognised as 4WD with lowered tyre pressure. There were many creek crossings which had sharp rocks and vertical climbs which needed the extra traction. It just wasn’t us either; many of the other travellers were commenting on how difficult it was considering what the driving signs were suggesting. All Dave’s driving and my stressing because of the vehicle angles did pay off in the end when little oasis’s popped out with luscious greenery and fresh water gorges.

Dave and I agreed, to anyone that is travelling through South Australia, the Flinders AND the Gammon Ranges are a must! For us it was pretty easy travelling but if there is a localised thunder storm prepare yourselves for numerous creek crossings and low range 4WD. Our friends Tim and Nat were a bit unfortunate to travel these areas in the wet but I’m sure they found special qualities in land from the rain. 


Bit of a yuppie hotel.
I'll soon show you all what a real Outback pub is like!

Easter bunny found us

RMW boots

The Pinnicles - Gammon Ranges

Yellow wild flowers. Growing in their thousands around the area


Thursday, April 14, 2011

Sheep station farmhand duties

“A day is a good day when you come back learning something” This is something that Dave and I are truly living by out in this country. It’s all about maintenance and being a general handyman; able to fix anything with whatever gear you’ve got which is a great quality to have. On a small scale, I’ve seen many of times how to change a tyre and to unhitch a trailer but its here where you’ll do it at least once a day and get pretty quick at it. It’s where you learn how to reverse a trailer, learn to ride manual dirt bike, and learn how to read the roads; although, to this family it’s just in a normal days work but to Dave and I it’s something that we need. We needed this experience to hit us over our heads so we could get a grip on something other than what is expected in a normal 9-5 office job. This is the whole point of our adventure; to discover something different and learn from our experiences.


Their planning something. I can see it in their eyes


The third day on the farm involved fixing another windmill which wasn't pumping water through to the boar. I now know the inns and outs of a working windmill and roughly how to fix it. It's amazing how many different parts are required and the amount of effort to pull out a 50ft pipe out of a well to check the pump at the bottom. Another skill Dave and I have learnt is the art of cementing. Given the chance, we are now able to make a decent load of wet cement used for either a wall or holding a pole in.

The farmer has a massive 'to do list' which today including unplugging a pipe which runs from the boar to the trough which the sheep drink out of. We pulled apart a lot of gear to get to the open pipe which then required a long steel rod to be pushed all the way through to unblock whatever was in there. A long story short and without me jumping into the boar we got it unplugged. Once you see beautiful clear water running into a well cleaned trough it has a definite feel good/sense of achievement :)

There is always a general to-do list out on the farm which Dave and I are getting pretty use to. The only difficult part of this job is trying to remember all the roads and where they lead to. Luckily I have a compass and a map of the station which can be of great help when you’ve lost the boundary fence and we’re in the middle of nowhere and EVERYTHING is the same. Amazing how all the horizon lines look the exact same as the one beside it.

During the weeks we’ve had a go at many things but the most challenging would have to be the dirt bikes. These are manual, 4 speed Honda/Yamaha 250CC bikes which are quite powerful. I had a little difficulty starting with the clutch but Dave jumped straight on and went like a rocket into the horizon without a hitch. Me, being the conservative woman I am, I stayed close to the house understanding the clutch and first gear and foot starting the bike once I stalled it. One day out of the blue, the farmer’s son Will asked us to help muster some 100 sheep out of one paddock into the drafting pen where they would be divided accordingly. Put us in the deep end and learn to swim. We were up and over branches, in and out of sand ditches, and bloody through thousands of prickly bushes while trying to scout out any mobs of sheep. We use the fence to guide the heard with me behind to push them along and Dave on the side to stop them moving sidewards all the while Will and Josh scout out more mobs of sheep and add them to ours. We ended up with a few scratches but thankfully didn’t bruise our pride having everything going to plan. Came back learning something today!
It became difficult to take photos when you're on a job like that. I was only focusing on finding sheep and not falling off. Sorry. Here are some others.

Something you have to get use to

Sunset over the country

Storm rolling in

Southern Cross windmill, made in our local Toowoomba
 

Internet here is very slow which means epic fail on uploading vidoes. Sorry, had one feeding lambs, Dave on the bike, and us going out on a job.

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Great company is good for the soul

After the Barossa Valley region we caught up with our friends Tim and Nat as they had just returned from the northern regions of the Flinders Ranges. Their troopy came back full of mud which turned rock hard from roof rack to wheel hub and like the immature kids we are, we desecrated it. We caught up at a little port town on the Yorke Peninsular of Wallaroo for some yummy fish and chips on the beach. We found some dirt tracks to our camp ground which is always a preferred route for us and especially to dirty Tim and Nat’s car even a little more. The camp was right near the beach just behind some sand dunes which made a lovely barricade when the wind picked up. The sunset was beautiful over the western waters and the company wasn’t too bad for the long night of drinking and catching up. 




Both Dave and I found it hard to get up the next morning, I wonder why? We cruised up along the coast to port towns for lunch and great scenery which is becoming more and more greener the further north we go. Heading towards Port Pirie we could see the south end of the Flinders Ranges which looked amazing; eventually we’ll get there. We broke off with Tim and Nat around Port Pirie as we continued onto Port Augusta to camp at a caravan park for the night. Once at Port Augusta CP we noticed how security orientated they are with massive 8 foot steel bar security gate and at least 7 foot fence with 2 lines of barbed wire around the whole caravan park. I was wondering the point of all this extra effort only until night fall when we heard a lot of local drunks walking around the beach just out the front plus the use of way too many advertisements stating the common thieve.

So after a night hoping nothing would get stolen, we drove off towards the sheep station 300km north. It was a beautiful drive with so much greenery. It was like a huge green blanket has covered the red centre of Australia, even lucky enough to see puddles of fresh water near the side of the road.
One thing I’ve noticed in the outback is their signs and how many bloody gunshot hole they’ve got. Evident in the photo.






To be truly part of the outback you must master the art of the ‘wave’. As cars go by whether they are a Toyota working Ute, a Holden cruising sedan, or a Nissan 4wd towing a caravan, there must be a wave of acknowledgement. When you see a car every 10minutes you are actually excited to see something go by which is evident by our wave and their wave. When we don’t get a wave, we shout and raise our arms in anger stating how un-Australian they are but when we do get a wave either by a full hand or by the index finger something more than ‘hello’ is said; it’s a more Australian laid back recognition of ‘g-day’ and the ‘take it easy’ attitude.


We saw the sign for our station that we’ll be calling home for the next 3 months; it was a 34km sandy and congregated dirt road which the troopy found fore play. We came across 3 emus, 4 kangaroos and numerous foxes on our way into the station but weirdly NO sheep. We shook that off quickly when in the distance we saw the homestead. We’d already been notified that no one would be home so we drove in and made ourselves comfortable in our white and cute ecohut. In our own house we have 2 bedrooms, a lounge, a working kitchen, and a bathroom. We were so excited to have a house with 4 walls, a permanent roof with the luxury of a queen mattress! We checked out the main part of the house which is clearly a homestead; a 1930’s sandstone house with all the rustic qualities you would expect. There were old rabbit traps, Akubra hats, iron sheets laying around, the abundance of Landcruiser utes, spider webs in all corners, large handmade table setting, and a wide open planed layout. It was a pure classic farm house which we fell in love with straight away. The family arrived later in the arvo and was happy to finally meet us; they were so friendly and very giving sort of people. They drilled into us that we were part of the family and had access to everything from the fridge to the internet which was so warming. The farmer Dave is pretty laid back sort of guy which appreciates a beer after a hard day of work, and the wife Megan is so lovely and is one of the best cook I’ve met (not as good as my mum!). We work with the farmer and another young guy Josh who is a quiet guy but he’s slowly coming out of his shell.

Our first day involved feeding young lambs (I really enjoyed that...so cute), dealing with the bull dozers, fixing fences, batting kangaroo meat with 1080 poison for the foxes, fixing windmills, and pulling down a 1km long fence. I thought if this was our first day what would tomorrow bring.
Tuesday involved digging a hole, driving 50km down the road to get free sand and grinded rocks, and cementing a wall. Who would have thought in two days Dave and I would have done all this, there is still more than 2 months left. This is definitely an experience where we will learn so much in such a small amount of time!

The deal here is we work from around 8am to 5/6pm with plenty of breaks in between when we’re around the house. Dave the farmer said that sometimes we will be camping out in swags under the stars because of how far we will be away from the house and how much work we will need to do which sound frick’n awesome. The farm is at least 80km by 40km wide with roughly 17000 sheep with more to come in the lambing season. In the winter season the temperature is actually quite nice with days averaging 25 degrees and nights around 10; it can get warmer during the day and also very cold during the night with a record of -4 degrees. We get breakfast, lunch, and dinner provided with heaps of snacks and drinks plus a reasonable wage :) We cannot complain one bit about their hospitality.

Thanks Tom and Amy for the heads up about this job!

I'll post some more picture up in a few days

Saturday, April 2, 2011

A day in the Barossa

We’d been excited ever since the thought of having a taste of nice wine in the Barossa Valley. Today was not for the $15, 5Litre, 21 standard drinks goon wine we’ve been use to; today was for the $50 a bottle Penfolds and McGuigans wines to taste for free. It was a beautiful autumn day with clear blue skys, roses of all colours in bloom, and the sight of lovely golden orange leaves falling off the trees in the cool breeze.
Our first point of call was the McGuigan cellar door which was housed in an 18th century building; one of the oldest building in the area. This cellar door would have to been the best winery off the whole day. The late Riesling and Moscato was definitely the best in town for a quite reasonable price too. The buildings around winery were absolutely amazing and having so well manicured lawns and gardens gave it a wonderful presence.






There were the famous wineries like Jacobs Creek and Wolf Blass but knowing how mass produced they’ve become we didn’t have high expectations and luckily we didn’t.  We found the smaller wineries had more character to the cellar door, gardens and had better quality grapes which were noticeable in the wines. I mean, the wines were nice at the larger wineries but not up to expectations for example:  at Penfold’s which is Australia’s most famous winery I had expectations that I would love most of their selection, but neither Dave or I liked anything. I think we had to taste the $200 bottle of Grange they had there to fully understand.

The day was perfect to experience such amazing wines and beautiful scenery with the one you love. Maybe next time we’ll get a designated driver and stay at the 5 star Novetel for the weekend.