THE GIBB RIVER ROAD

The Gibb River Road is known as the most rugged and corrugated road in Australia, notoriously known for breaking axles, blowing tyres, and vibrating out any lose nut or bolt. Only opened for 7 months of the year because of the sheer amount of water during the wet season this road still tests the best drivers during the dry; several river crossings up to the bonnet, uncountable creek crossings, and temperatures still high to test the car radiator. So with that in mind, we hoped that our 23year old car would hold up to the constant corrugations and sharp rocks, we jumped right in.

Tim and Nat, our friends from Tasmania were here to join us on this stretch of road. Out in this country it’s logical to travel with another and simply practise good convoy behaviour. Our new mudstar 33inch tyres should work a gem on these roads and with a lowered pressure of 26psi plus the theory of all our bolts literally rusted in we hoped for the best. Once we left the bitumen it was straight into the corrugations; nope, no gradual introduction to this road. This was the beginning of 588km track full of vacuuming red dust and persistent dogging of anything ‘puncture’ worthy.

Quality Control Inspector Nat

Our first stop was the well known EL Questro Conservation Area. This expensive little outing can cost up to $108 to visit 4 gorges, swim in a thermal spring, drive within the conservation area, and camp there for one night. But with some ingenious planning we cut that down dramatically (I’ll leave it at that).  Every gorge was able to offer something different. Our favourite was the highlighted El Questro Gorge which did require a decent 8 km walk with plenty of water crossings. We literally had to get into hip high water and convoy our gear over to the other side while rock climbing over waterfalls. It was an adventurous walk and with the gorge all to ourselves it that truly made it worthwhile it at the end. 



Sexy hiking gear there Jess



Another holiday maker was at Zebedee springs which made for a very relaxing morning. Laying back with a view of red rusted cliffs, palm trees surrounding the pools, and a very comfortable 32 degrees, things sometime couldn’t be better.

Continuing back on the Gibb, we’d been told about this Pentecost River. Making it name famous for puncturing tyres and even in some cases drowning cars. We’d heard one guy doing two back tyres in one 150 metre crossing while we were there, and even seeing one troopcarrier almost becoming water logged after changing gears while in the water. These stories have made this crossing not the river itself. Drivers and there stupidity gets them into these situations. Taking it slow, right tyre pressure, and practising Low4 through river crossings could have easily prevented these bad scenarios from happening. So with Tim and Nat we slowly creped through in Low4 second gear without one problem what so ever.

Taking this road slowly averaging about 50km/h we had plenty of people overtaking us and even had the pleasure at seeing one of them a few km’s up the road with a flat tyre. Sigh, someday they will learn. That afternoon we randomly pulled into the Home Valley Station not expecting much of an invitation or accommodation. However, beauty comes from within. Arriving through beautiful stone walls we first noticed the awesome green grass. Dealing with constant dust the sight of green luscious grass made me want to be a dog. Sounds weird, but just thinking about rolling around feeling happy on the grass was enough to justify the $32 unpowered that night.

There were 2 massive pools, a stylish but rustic bar with cheap beers and yummy tasting food, and the Pentecost River nearby for Dave and Tim to go fishing. It was a beautiful place to spend the afternoon lying around the pool in the middle of nowhere.

Tim and Dave’s fishing expedition was classic; returning with nothing but mud all over their clothes and up to their knees. Sometimes I wonder about the effort in catching fish. Fishing alongside salt water crocodiles is not my cup of tea.



Pat Callaghan: 4X4 show on ONE HD (randomly at Home Valley Station)



To Dad

Unfortunately, there seems to be days where you want to turn back time. Dad has been travelling with us for the last couple of month which has been absolutely fantastic. Just having lost mum, having dad by my side was everything I wanted. However, things turned bad when Dave and I turned off to do the Gibb River Road. A few days into the track I received a message saying that Dad had turned back to go home. Dad felt unwell and lethargic so thinking it was for the best, he headed for home to relax. Now I think about it, it seemed my fault. We travelled long distances, hard rough roads, and only stayed in places for a few days. Unlike when mum and dad travelled; things were short sharp and sweet. I forget sometimes that my dad is getting older and need to take things easy. To dad: I apologies a million times. We offered to slow down but he thought only of us and said he was happy to go home.

Dad, you are the best farther any daughter could have...Love you lots.

Into Western Australia, the big state

From Kakadu we leisurely drove towards the Western Australian boarder. It was exciting moment for Dave and I as this was the only true unfamiliar state. Having a look at WA on the map reminds us of how far we have to travel and how much we really have to do.

 Fishing though, is creeping it’s was up the priority list. We’ve now adjusted what campsites we stay at making priority listings for ones near rivers and catchments after my barramundi catch and Dave’s persistence on getting one. So days getting to WA are becoming a lot more relaxed, seating by flicking a line in now and again and just watching the day go by. I’m glad to be on holidays during those moments.

Kununurra had to be a definite stop over. We decided to splurge on a flight over the Bungle Bungle. We had heard of the bad road conditions, the fact we had to back track at least 2 tanks, and the costs to enter and camp in the national park; it all weighed up. It did cost us a little more but was absolutely worth it which I could understand being in the top 5 things to do in Australia. We flew over Lake Argyle and the dam, the Argyle Diamond mine home to the extremely rare pink and champagne coloured diamond, over and through the bungle bungle, and back along several cattle stations. We ended up flying as low as 400 feet and banked hard...feeling the G’s. Dad sure enjoyed the flight as expected but sometimes it seemed like he was more interested in the gauges and the mechanics of the plane than the view. Oh well, love him anyway. 

Some little random extras on the road

Census on the road...no escape damn it

Keeping up with the Jones? Coolibah, their station

Kakadu - WATER CROSSING AND 4WD

I left with jumping crocodiles and return with scenery of what is Kakadu and more importantly water crossings and 4WDing.

Kakadu can be seen following the Arnhem Highway into the National Park, though to experience the little secrets it had to offer we needed to verge off the bitumen. Along the main way we got to see plenty of wetlands and the birdlife but to really get into it we guided ourselves through the seven regions of Kakadu.

 The wetlands of Mamukala which required a leisurely stroll through the forest

·         Jabiru  and the famous Crocodile holiday inn which is actually shaped like a crocodile

·         Ubirr and the aboriginal rock art sites including a lookout over Nadab floodplain + Cahill’s Crossing into Arnhem land then getting back quickly so we wouldn’t get into trouble

·         Nourlangie with more rock art sites

·         Yellow water floodplain that makes home to thousands of Salt water crocs + where I caught a nice 35cm (not legal L) barramundi

·         Jim Jim Falls and Twin Falls requiring decent 4WD and water crossings – one where the bow-wave came over onto the bonnet

·         Finally, Mary River region with the drop off swimming rock pools at Gunlom waterfalls.

Our favourite part would have definitely been the Jim Jim and Twin Falls Region. It meant a 50km corrugated road in where the camp site was, a boat pass to access Twin falls, the actual falls, and more importantly the famous Jim Jim River Crossing. It was a challenge for me mentally but car wise, the troopy loved the wash. Four Wheel Low Range second allowed the car to just slide through the very deep water which did come inside my passenger door and glide out like nothing ever happened. Tim and Nat were with us and because of their recent experience doing the Cape they showed off quite well. Their troopy like any, handled it very well.

JUMPING CROCODILES - an introduction to Kakadu

Just thinking about the National Park KAKADU it’s easy to slip away and imagine what this country is about. All Dave and I could think about is CROCODILES!

So with that image imprinted we scouted out on where to find these great prehistoric creatures.

First sighting was a 1.5 metre freshwater croc on the banks of Fog Dam just out of the National Park. We wanted MORE. So not far down the track we ventured for:

Adelaide River Cruises presents: Jumping Crocodiles.

“Why the hell not” we stated. Knowing that this business was family owned (not a massive commercialised business), not endangering the wildlife or the environment, and more importantly not getting ourselves into too much danger... we jumped on board a 10 metre tinny boat with another 15 people on board “We’ll be right”. From the NT News newspaper front cover headlines, we heard of a local croc on the Adelaide River. A 5m long male weighing just over a tonne. I was hoping 4 of his mate’s don’t rock up and decide to have a go at the boat. Brutus was the name of this rare oversized male we want to see. They say he’s over 100 years old and seen many battles in his time; one too many as being identified by the scares and the loss of his front leg. I started thinking...if Brutus is 5m long and weighs a tonne, what on earth was he battling to lose the arm. My question was answered when the all mighty Dominator came around the corner averaging the same size as Brutus. I’m guessing their not good friends.

Its BRUTUS!

Note the missing front leg

This is DOMINATOR

Brutus is now a famous croc in the NT with pictures reaching all over the world because of his amazing size. However, the commercialised businesses are claiming Brutus is their Crocodile hoarding the extra business around this rarity. The fact being, Brutus is part of the family’s owned business. Fact: (referencing the NT NEWS) the photo pictured a 10 metre tinny on the front cover not a Double Decker boat owned by the other businesses, plus each cruise has their own area of the river whereby Brutus only lives further downstream where the family business resides. 

our boat..not much of a barrier

Just a little perspective

Good jump by a small female

What big teeth you have!

With the boat cruise going out 4 times a day, these crocs get pretty use to the positive assurance they receive with the boat. Attracted by the wild buffalo dangling in front of their eyes they use their very powerful tail to project themselves at least 2 metres out of the water. This was a definite sight to see.

We call him 'The Apprentice'

If this was the introduction to Kakadu, we’re going to like the rest of it.

Discovering Darwin

For Dad, Dave, and I, the little top end capital city of Darwin is the furthest north we’ve ever been so it was an exciting first for all of us.  In the winter months the temperature is bearable hovering around 33 degrees and about 40% humidity. But, during the summer months I can understand why every traveller heads south with 50 degree heat and 80% humidity....no thanks.
We stayed in the out shirts of Darwin in a lovely Resort/caravan park. We were able to fit both vehicles on one site which ended up costing about $20 a night powered which for up here during the touristy months is pretty much unheard of. Darwin is a pretty chilled outdoor sort of place. Most people are down on the waterfront soaking up the sun or having fun in the wave pool area. Shops don’t open till 9 or 10am, and most things close on a weekend so this capital city is pretty much a large rural country town.

Feet first into the Timor Sea

Though being a holiday, things sometimes don’t always seem that way. We had problems a while ago with the cover of our Hannibal roof top tent. So we did organise with Hannibal a replacement under warrantee thankfully, NO questions asked and had it shipped to Darwin to be put on by TJM. Arriving into Darwin TJM at 7.30am we managed to get it in and out within a few hours. Tick that off the list. After a few days of looking around, shopping, dining out I forgot to stop and relax so we ended up staying a few extra nights. Days of lying in the pool and sipping on a strawberry Sunday cocktail did make me feel like I was on a holiday again.





On the HMAS Darwin



Our First Sunset over the Ocean

Pretty Pic

Our regular mates! We said goodbye as Tom and Amy set off into Queensland.

Shaving Dave's hair...doesn't seem that happy